‘Every Chef Should Study Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.